Florence Vintage Dress Sew Along

For the past couple of weeks I've been having fun sewing up a vintage dress with the ladies over at the Handmaiden's Cottage Pattern Group. We've lovingly named this dress pattern Florence.

After seeing this dress on Amelia, I'm sure you're going to want to make your own. Click here for the link to the Handmaiden's Cottage pattern shop to purchase the pattern pieces. Once you have your pattern pieces, follow the link and join us in the pattern group to get all the information you need to sew up this pretty dress.

This dress features button closure at the front, side zipper, 1/4 circle skirt, darts at the front and back bodice for a close fit and a beautiful wide collar with scallops. 

In true vintage style the pattern has a 5/8" seam allowance and a 3" hem allowance and even instructions on how to do your buttonholes by hand! 

I'm already looking forward to spring and setting up an outside tea party for Amelia because this dress is demanding a fun special occaison!

Until next time, xx.

Day 5 Moto Jacket Sew-a-Long - A PDF by Jennuine Design

The last day already?! Where did the week go! I can tell you one thing, Amelia is so glad to finally get her new Moto Jacket!

Just incase you missed a post and any helpful hints here are the links from start to finish of the Moto Jacket Sew-a-Long featuring a pttern from Jennuine Design*:

• Day 1 - preparing your pattern
• Day 2 - cutting your fabric 
• Day 3 - zipper, welted pockets and more
• Day 4 - sleeves, lining, and collar

There's still time to get your pattern at a discount in the Jennuine Design* pattern shop, use the coupon code "MOTOSEWALONG" at checkout to get the pattern for only $6.00 (regular $10.00). The discount will be available until December 13th, 2015.

Here are some details about the pattern:

• Layered printing so you can print only the sizes you need and want. 
• Easy to follow step-by-step intructions with drawings in the tutorial.
• 3/8" seam allowances included.
• Sizes range from 2t - 12 years.
• Charts for fabric requirements and measurements of finished garment included.
• Extra information about blending sizes, shortening zippers and creating the garment for a boy or girl...all this is in the pattern tutorial.

If you need extra help or you just want to share your Jennuine Design creation just join their facebook group.

Until next time, xx.

*This blog contains affiliate links meaning I make a small commission if you click on the link and make a purchase through it at no extra cost to you.

**I was given this pattern for the prupose of the sew long but all opinions are my own!

Day 4 Moto Jacket Sew-a-Long - A PDF by Jennuine Design

Day 4, and we're in the home stretch! Be sure to share you finished project in the Jennuine Design Pattern Group on facebook!

If you didn't have a chance to sew along with us you can still pick up the pattern in the Jennuine Design Pattern Shop*, you can still get it at $6.00 (reg. $10.00) until December 13, 2015, use the code "MOTOSEWALONG" at checkout. While you're there take a look at all the other fun patterns available...JubeJube's favorite leggings are the Dressage Leggings, I must admit I really like the fit on her too.

Yesterday we really saw our jacket take shape, I love it when all the little pieces come together to shape make a garment. We talked about the pocket and top stitching, the zipper was put in and then it was the shoulder seams, back center seam and the side seams. 

Today, let's talk lining, collar and sleeves. 

I assembled my lining the as instructed in the tutorial, basted my collar to the main jacket. I wanted to make sure that the corners would meet up. I like the look of this cowl on this jacket. Due to the fact that I used the bottom band of a  sweater the collar is not as high, but that's the fun of creating with what you have, you always find a way to make it work. 

Once my collar was in place with the basting stitch I was easily able sew the lining to the main jacket making sure my soulder seams at the neckline matched up and the side seams were all matched up. 

I have to admit that I cheated a bit on the sleeves. I put in my sleeve and finished off with my serger to keep all the layers together and later today I'll be using the bias to finsh off the seam the way it should be as shown in the tutorial. It doesn't look that bad with serger stitch but it doesn't look finished and after all the planning and beautiful top stitching it would be ashamed not to finish of the inside of the jacket to give it a high-end look.

Come back tomorrow to see the whole finished jacket on my little model. 

Until next time, xx.

*This blog contains affiliate links meaning I make a small commission if you click on the link and make a purchase through it at no extra cost to you.

Day 3 Moto Jacket Sew-a-Long - A PDF by Jennuine Design

So here we are at Day 3, more than half way done! I can't believe how mine is coming together, I can't wait to see what everyone else has done with this pattern! Be sure to share you creations in the Jennuine Design Pattern Group on facebook!

I'm just going to share with you a couple of tricks I learned from my aunt who used to sew haute couture. The first trick, when the fabric permits, use interfacing on the wrong side of the main fabric for the welt opening. This prevents those corners from fraying and keeps them really crisp. I'm using denim for my jacket but for those using vinyl, or fake leather I wouldn't recommend putting those fabrics under the iron.

Be sure to mark your welt openings on the wrong side of your fabric so that you don't stain the right side of your fabric if ever your fabric pen doesn't wash away.

The next tip is about top stitching. Today after putting in the pockets we'll be starting some assembly. If you are making your jacket with a back center seam its nice to have a top stitch to show off that work. If you noticed the right side is a little bolder than the left side top stitch. I didn't pass over my stitching twice, I simply threaded my machine with two treads at the top and used bobbin thread as a single thread as I normally do. You can get thicker denim thread at the store but not a wide variety of colors are available but this method allows you to have a bigger range in color that will match perfectly to what you're stitching.

Today was not a long day of sewing...but I do recommend you take your time making sure your welted pockets are perfectly positioned, even in height and of equal distance from the side seam. You should have also put in the zipper and done all the assembly up until the sleeves.
For tomorrow, we'll be assembling the sleeves, putting the collar and assembling the lining.

Until next time, xx.

Day 2 Moto Jacket Sew-a-Long - A PDF by Jennuine Design

Day 2 is here and I'm ready to get cutting! 

Just a few things you want to remember before you start cutting into your much loved fabrics:

• Are you making your jacket for a boy or girl, left over right for a boy, and right over left for a girl, The right and left front pattern pieces are not the same!
• Are all your pattern pieces the required size for your model. Yes its happened to me, I've cut a size 4 front and a size 5 back, lucky for me I was able to fix that.
• Make sure you lay your pattern pieces the right way for directional fabrics and they are all following the grain line.
• Do all your required pattern pieces fit on your fabric, it would be ashame if you forgot just one piece and didn't have enough fabric to finish off your project.

Ok, I think we're ready to cut! I still get nervous when I start cutting into fabric...and I've been doing this for so long! Silly question here, and I'd love to get your comments on this, do you still get nervous when cutting into fabric or are you over that?

These are the fabrics that I'll be using. A heavier denim for the outside, soft cotton flannel for the lining and I'm going to upcyle a knit sweater and use the ribbing for the cuffs, neckband welted pockets. This is going to be one sweet looking jacket!

What to do if your zipper is just too long, that's an easy fix, but if your zipper is just a bit too short you will want to go and get something a little longer, at the same time pick up a couple of zipper stoppers, you'll be able to ask a sales associate for those at your local fabric store. (You'll see the little stoppers in the image below). Page 5 of the pattern tutorial has all the information you need about shortening a zipper. Jennifer has also set up the video tutorial on shortening zipper on her website. You'll want to make sure you have the tools you need just make your life easier and get it done.

Zipper teeth can be easily removed with a small pair of pliers and the new stoppers can be placed at the right height for the length of zipper you need. Some may wonder, but do I really need stoppers, the answer is YES! There's no way around it. 

Join us tomorrow, we start sewing! Yay, I can't wait!

By the way, still time to join in on the fun, join the Jennuine Design Pattern Group and grab your pattern in the Jennuine Design* pattern shop for only $6.00 using the code "MOTOSEWALONG" at checkout.

Until next time, xx.

*This blog contains affiliate links meaning I make a small commission if you click on the link and make a purchase through it at no extra cost to you.

Day 1 Moto Jacket Sew-a-Long - A PDF by Jennuine Design

Welcome to Day 1 of the sew-a-long featuring the Moto Jacket by Jennuine Design! Very excited to sew this one up with you. It brings me back to the first time I sewed up a really cool jacket (ummmm quite some time ago) and when my son Sebas had grown out of it he was really sad to the point he said he didn't want to grow anymore... just to give you an idea of its cool factor (he changed his tune quickly enough when I made him a new jacket).

Ok so back to our Moto Jacket and what we need to get done today!

First, if you haven't already purchased your pattern now is the time to get it! Jennifer has created a coupon code for you to use in her pattern shop Jennuine Design*. Use the code "MOTOSEWALONG" to get the pattern for only $6.00. If you want to be able to share your creations in a group setting, don't be shy, join the Jennuine Design Pattern Group on facebook.

Today is the day we get everything ready. I like to make sure I have everything I need so I don't have to stop what I'm doing and make a run to the store. Take a look at page 3 of the tutorial for a complete list of materials and notions needed to make this project.

I like to start off by throwing the fabrics that need washing into the washer. While the fabric is being taken care of I print off my pattern and tape it together. When a pattern has a layering feature like this one (infact all Jennuine Design patterns have that feature) I like to print one size up and one size down especially when I know I have to blend sizes or I'm unsure as to what size I need to make for my little model.

Lets talk about choosing sizes. You'll find both these charts in the tutorial on pages 3 and 4. The first chart is the chest meaurement your model has, and not the final meaurement of the garment. If you want to make clothes that fit go according to the meaurement, not the size they wear in store bought clothes. To give an example, for both my girls I buy ready to wear (RTW) clothes in a size 6 or 6X, BUT that's only becaue I need the length (especially on pants), and the waist ends up being really big on them. When I make their clothes I usually make a size 5 and end up adding a couple of inches to the length so that they don't end up looking like they're wearing floods. Sometimes I have to do more than add a couple of inches to the length of the pattern to make a garment that fits; here, and here are a couple of examples of blending sizes.

The chart of finished measurements is also another fantastic tool to make sure we're making the right size. By looking at the finished length of the jacket you can tell if you need to add a couple of inches. What I like to do is meaure the finished length of the size I want to make against my model and decide if its the right length for them, AND if its the right length for the style! Remeber this jacket should not go down to the hips, this style is meant to hit just an inch or so below the natural waistline.

Somethings that you need to consider in your planning:

• Are you making this jacket for a boy or girl. Girls have jackets close right over left and boys jackets are left over right. You'll need to cut your pieces accordingly (I'll mention it again on day 2 when we cut fabrics)
• Size, do you need to blend sizes for a better fit. If you do need to blend sizes don't forget you will also need to adjust the pocket placement to make sure the opening isn't at an awkward position on your jacket and make sure its done on both right and left sides of the jacket.

Tomorrow we'll be cutting out fabrics and talking about zipper length and how to adjust it if its a bit too long for your garment. Remember its always easier to shorten a zipper than to make it longer, heeeheee.

Until next time, xx.


*This blog contains affiliate links meaning I make a small commission if you click on the link and make a purchase through it at no extra cost to you.

Finishing Up Lily by Frocks & Frolics

This is the final day of the Sew-a-Long featuring the Lily Dress and Tunic pattern by Frock & Frolics. Join the Frocks & Frolics Sewing Circle on facebook to stay up to date on up coming events and new pattern releases.

If you made this pattern to have an opening you'll want to add your button loop before stitching your back outer shell to your lining. 

I made my Lily as plain as can be, but adding lace to the hem or some button or floral embelishments at the top of the pleats can be so fun! I knew my fabric already had a lot going on and I didn't want to make it too busy but thinking of the summer when I'll make this pattern using a plain linen adding a little something as simple as a lace hem will make it go from plain to wow!

Thanks to Marina of Froks & Frolics for having me! JubeJube loves her new tunic (her smile doesn't lie) and it was a pleasure to sew up!
You can get your copy in their Etsy shop along with so many other fun patterns. Not to worry if you're new to sewing, you can use the step-by-step videos that Marina has set up here.

Until next time, xx.

Lily by Frocks & Frolics Sew-a-Long Day 3

Welcome to Day 3! Don't forget to post your progress in the Frocks & Frolics Sewing Circle on facebook.

Today we're going to overcast the raw edges of the lower bodice lining (front and back) and also the center back of the lining and the main or outer shell of the garment. You can do this by using a zigzag stitch on your regular machine or your serger. We're also working on creating those pretty box pleats on the front of the garment. 

I like to have my pleats perfectly pressed all the way down to the hem and I'm going to tell you how to acheive that without spending so much time with a ruler or gauge at the ironing board.

1. Stith your pleats as indicated in the tutorial.
2. Change your stitch length to the longest and baste the rest of the pleat all the way down to the unfinished hem. (you may be able to see that long basting stitch in the above image).
3. Press using steam to make sure those pleats stay in place.
4. Just before your ready to stitch your hem, remove those basting stitches. They should come out very easily just by pulling on the bobbin thread, just make sure you haven't cut the tails of your threads.

Once your pleats are done, you can go ahead and stitch those shoulder seams on the main and lining.

Make your way back here tomorrow to see more of this project.

Until next time, xx.

Lily by Frocks & Frolics Sew-a-Long Day 2

We're starting day 2 of the Lily sew-a-long, be sure to join us in the sewing group on facebook for more fun and sharing! You've selected the size and options you'll be using to make your Lily, and you're just about ready to cut into that fabric...

This is a little check list I like to go through before I start cutting my fabric:

• Make sure my pieces are all on the straight grain of the fabric.
• If I'm using a directional fabric, make sure everything is right side up...it would be a shame if my characters were all on their heads and upside down.
• Make sure that all my pattern pieces fit on to the fabric and that I didn't forget any pattern pieces.
• As much as possible I have my prints line up, like stripes or big flowers (take a look at this post here on how I get my prints to line up)

Once all your pieces are cut out you need to transfer the markings from the paper pieces to the wrong side of the fabric:

• Center front of bodice at the neckline
• Box pleat markings
• Center front of lining ar the neckline
• Markings at center back if you're making the version with button closure at the back.

All these markings will help you make beautiful box pleats and  sew your pieces together so they match up as perfectly as they can.

Now a days a lot of us use fabric pens (most a water soluble), some will use tailors chalk. I still go old school and mark my patterns using needle and thread especially when there's a lot of details like pleats and darts. 

Come back tomorrow when we start to sew! I have a few more tips and tricks to share too! If you haven't started its not to late to join in on the fun, grab your pattern at a discount in the Etsy shop using the code "LILYROCKS" for 25% at checkout.

Until next time, xx.

Lily by Frocks & Frolics Sew-a-Long Day 1

I'm so excited to be hosting this sew-a-long for Marina of Frocks & Frolics! For this event you can follow along on my blog or join the facebook group, this will also allow you to stay up to date with new releases and sales. 

Its not too late to sew along with us, grab your pattern here, on Etsy and be sure to use the code "LILYROCKS" at checkout for 25% off.

Today we're getting together everything we need for the project:

• Pattern
• Fabric
• Notions (button, thread)

Before starting to sew I like to make sure I have everything I need since I often sew in the evening when the stores are closed. 

There are several options in this pattern like the neckline and length. I chose to make the tunic with the button closure at the back and the closed box pleats.

Come back tomorrow, I'll be sharing some fun facts about how I was taught to sew.

Until next time, xx.

Tea Anyone!

Today we start a new sew along featuring a pattern from the Handmaiden's Cottage (affiliate link). Join us in the Handmaiden's Cottage Pattern Group on facebook as we sew up the Tea Party Dress.

I made the dolly version of this pretty little dress, and this is is the sight Julia woke up to on Sunday morning, her doll dressed up and her hair all done along with one of her bears drinking tea from my grandmother Queen Anne China tea cup. She was so thrilled to see her doll Emma get a fancy dress! By the way, making doll sized clothes becomes very additive, I can't wait to make another!

There is as much detail and ruffles in the doll sized version and in the child  sized pattern (which by the way is on sale for a limited time of only $5.00 in THC pattern shop)

This is a break down of the sew-a-long and you'll see there's about an hour of work to do everyday. For those who take part and post their finished dress in the appropriate album in the group there will be a giveaway...but you didn't hear it from me.

Hope to see you all there!
Until next time, xx.

Day 3, Swing Dress Sew-a-Long

On Day 3 of the Swing Dress Sew-a-Long we're going to look at how to make a more custom fit for this sweet little dress. If you've missed day 1 and 2 you can catch up in the Handmaiden's Cottage Pattern Group on facebook.

With this pattern there is little difference in the finished garment measurement at the chest and some of you want to have a closer fitting bodice.

First you need to finish off the side pieces as indicated in the pattern tutorial.

Using a safty pin thread the 1/4" elastic through the casing you created with the bias tape. I used about 5 inches of elastic for each side for a size 5-6.

Before pulling the elastic all the way through secure the end of the elastic.

Pull the safty pin all the way through.

Then secure the other end.

And that's it! All you have left to do for today is assemble the sleeves as directed in the tutorial of the the Swing Dress pattern (affiliate link). 

Tomorrow we'll be assembling the rest of the dress and Friday will be all about those ruffles! Saturday join me back here and you'll get to see my dress all finished up.

Until next time, xx.